はじめに
このガイドを参照して、Steam Deck LCD フロントシェル(フロントカバー)の交換をします。
一般的な静電気放電（ESD）の手順に従うことを忘れないでください。
この手順では、ディスプレイを取り外すなど、ほぼ完全な分解が必要です。ディスプレイとスピーカーの交換用接着剤が必要です。
必要な工具と部品
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この手順で使用する道具：FixMat$36.95
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プラスドライバーを使って、バックカバーを固定している8本のネジを外します。
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長さ9.5mmの粗ネジー4本
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長さ5.8mmネジー4本
there should be a picture of the SD card slot at the start of every Steam Deck teardown. i know the note is there but i generally use the pictures to guide me and forgetting to remove the SD card is a very critical step
I agree, I just broke mine...
What is the the #1 philips used for? Only the #0 is mentioned in the instructions.
I wish they would specify which size to use for which screws.
Mark D -
I found it easiest to use a PH1 for the red screws, and PH0 for the rest (including the internals.)
I used the PH1 bit for this. You can use smaller bits but ideally there should be no play of the bit in the screw head.
I used the PH1 for the 9.5mm screws and PH00 for the 5.8mm screws. The PH0 wanted to strip one of the small ones.
Pol Llovet - 返信
Just a point for knowledge sake, the Four 5.8mm screws on this step are factory installed with a version of locktite. Not sure why but there will be slight resistance when removing the first time.
The screw bit that came with my fix kit just stripped the screws of my steam deck. I guess I should've just sent it in...
Model 1030 SteamDeck uses Torque #6 (CR-V T6) 5.0mm for all 8 screws making it far less likely to damage the screw heads.
Model 1030 is the OLED version, which we have separate guides for! See here: Steam Deck OLED
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オープニングピックを右側グリップの端に沿って、バックカバーとフロントシェルの間に差し込みます。
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バックカバーをこじ開けると、ロッキングクリップから外れます。
I found it easiest to start this process at the top of the device near the fan exit.
second that and inserting the pick in the bottom middle and sliding the pick to each side
Sub -
I also found the top near the fan exit to be easier
Thank you for this tip, it definitely was easy starting at the top instead of by the bumper/triggers. After I opened the top I did the bottom and then it was way easier to gently open the sides. be very careful and go slowly to make sure that none of the clips are damaged
Luis B -
this as suggested above:
1. open the top
2. open the bottom
3.gently open the sides
I also started from the middle of the deck and worked my way out since I couldn't get a grip with the pick on the deck's side grips. Since this is a common step for pretty much all guides for opening the deck I think it's also worth noting that you should be careful not to bend the trims/seams where the front and back covers meet with the pick. When I first opened my deck you can definitely see where I nudged the pick in between the covers since I was probably using too much force on the pick itself.
It would be useful to note here that if you want to insert the little blue triangular iFixit opening picks into the right side along the edge, there isn't actually a gap as the directions say, at least not on newer Decks. You'll be making the initial gap using the pick. Brace it on something because you will need to use enough downward force that you're flexing the pick a bit and it'll probably be digging into the skin of a bare hand. With enough force suddenly it will make a click and go in just a bit, and then you're in business.
plastic picks didnt work for me but finger males did the job on prying this open
This step was the hardest by far. First I didn't find an opening at the sides, and it did take a really long time until I finally got it open... Then, when I had the one side opening open it didn't just pop out, I needed to slide all the way to the other side with the pick and open everything. I guess they made it even more drop resistant.
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バックカバーの開口部を握り、本体から上へ引き離し、長い辺をクリップから外します。
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バックカバーを取り出します。
If you have an SD card, you will want to take it out. I followed the guide and didn't think about the SD card I had inside. When I went to snap the case back on it clapped shut on the exposed SD card, shearing it in half and leaving the bottom half stuck in the SD card slot. I am still endeavoring to get it out.
you can use the case that comes with the steam deck to support it once the lid is removed
You can get the pry pick inserted easier if you start in the gap for the shoulder buttons. A lego brick separator works well here
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この手順で使用する道具：Tweezers$4.99
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ピンセットを使って、ボードシールド上の隠れたネジを覆っているフォイルテープの一部分を剥がします。
Use some heat here from a hairdryer to make this part easier.
If you screw up here you can replace the little aluminium square with some aluminium tape from Amazon. No less than 50 microns thick, slightly thicker is fine. and the square is 13mm both ways.
Thanks for that Matt, i destroyed the original tape and i had no solution since i read your comment.
You should not. This is EM shielding to protect your processor and ram from radio waves in the air
I found out my 3 Weeks new Steam Deck is a old Version... gg. Valve...
wenn ich aluminium foile benutze, womit soll ich sie dann verkleben?
If we have the new version with the black shield, how do we access the SSD?
I need this part, does anyone know where to get it?
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プラスドライバーを使って、ボードシールドを固定している3本のネジを外します。
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3.4mmネジー1本
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3.7mmネジー2本
The procedure ended here for me, used an ifixit PH 00 bit on the screw behind the aluminium tape, bit wouldnt bite too great, one wrong twist and the screw was stripped. Not sure who or what initially screwed in that particular screw as the rest of the screws on the shield were fine, but boy is it in there tight. So now i have a stripped screw and a botched ssd replacement, don't think valve will let me RMA for this, but i'll give it a try and update accordingly.
Any updates? Did they let you RMA?
I found one screw to be ridiculously tight too, managed to undo it without stripping thanks to reading your comment beforehand and going extra careful. Not going to lie, it was a tense moment :D
Andy HL -
I'm stuck in the same place. I haven't fully stripped it, but I can tell you that if I try and make it budge it will strip. The thing is massively overtightened. The driver fit fine, the metal just gives way before the screw will budge.
I think the tendency is to go too small on the screwdriver bits because you're working on small electronics.
I used the PH1 bit on the screw under the foil and the PH0 bit for the two remaining screws without any problems.
What does this shield actually do? Some kind of magnetic protection?
if I had to replace the key (R2) and that's it, can I directly remove it or do I have to act here on the motherboard too?
have you gotten an answer yet? trying to change mines as well but dont wanna do too much to the deck
briaNN -
button Not key, i’m sorry
FYI there is a little pin on the cover that slots into the board. It is located near the top screw. I needed that to be inserted for the cover to go back down properly.
For anyone who may have stripped a 3.7mm screw, Steam Support states it's M1.6 diameter with a 0.35 thread pitch and a 3mm length. Hopefully that'll help anyone trying to locate a replacement screw. Hoping iFixIt can make an internal screws kit as they're kinda hard to find the right one online.
Did valve change the shield recently as my new 64gb deck has a black shield with no hidden screw.
Yes there's a new hardware revision out there that some people are getting. Consider stopping at this point and putting your deck back together if you have one of these new hardware revisions (the fan is quite different as well to the pictures) until iFixit has an updated repair guide.
Simon M. -
There are only 2 screws now, but be careful taking the shield off, because there are still thermal pads under it sticking it to a heat pipe.
I need this piece, can someone help me where can I find it please?
Hi, is it possible to buy these shields somewhere? I am extremely interested in buying a replacement.
Yannick B. - 返信
Model 1030 is the OLED version, which we have separate guides for! See here: Steam Deck OLED
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ボードシールドを外します。
During reassembly, ensure that the fan cable lays on the side of the board shield and isn't pinched underneath.
Are you saying that the fan cable should be positioned above the board shield instead of being pressed down by it? Just like the image shows, where it 'lays on the side of the board shield'?
Necesito esta pieza la mía no la traía se ve que se la quitaro
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バッテリーケーブルのプルタブを持ち、マザーボードから直接引き離して、切断します。
After fully reassembling my device I found that my battery was not showing any stats anymore. I couldn't start the device without being plugged in, however if I restarted it would stay on even if my power cable was detached. Battery showed 0%. It turns out I had not fully reinserted the battery cable at this stage during reassembly. MAKE SURE YOU PUSH IT ALL THE WAY BACK IN!
Awesome thanks for this tip!
It is helpful to lift up gently with a the tapered end of a spudger underneath the tucked-in portion of the battery cable, creating a bit of flex in the cable before pulling on the pull tab. I found that without doing so, the fabric pull-tab simply tore off of the cable under light-to-moderate force (the fabric itself ripped cleanly across, like a paper towel). Careful, gentle pressure with a spudger can be used to remove the plug by prying gently on the rear ridge of the plastic plug (not the wire!) if this happens.
This is exactly what happened to me. Maybe it was a pull tab previously, mine was a ribbon cable that tore - captured the image here: https://www.ianwootten.co.uk/2022/11/22/...
This was the best approach (and I feel safest for the wiring) for me. Mostly push pressure on the plastic ridge with some minor pull tension on the fabric.
Victor -
I found it less scary and easier to remove the battery connection by using a fingernail on the ridge and pushing it off the connector. I felt like pulling on the battery cable was too harsh.
Yeah, pulling cables like these is usually ill advice. They might be fine if it's a new device, but for old devices that have been sitting there for years, there's a good chance the connector has grown brittle and the cable might just come off separately (something I learnt the hard way).
skzm -
I second this approach. For me, the cable felt way to flimsy and the connector wouldn't budge even under moderate force. Except I used the flat end of a spudger to "scrape" it out.
Misza -
Upon plugging the battery back in, I found it easy to use two spudgers- one on each side- to pull/push the connector back into it's port. Be careful to not put any pressure on the battery wires themselves.
When reconnecting the battery cable, you'll know when it's inserted and power is restored, because the white LED will illuminate at the top of the Deck near the power button. You should be able to see it while you're reconnecting the battery cable
This is only true if you haven't put the deck into battery storage mode as directed.
Why not just let the battery discharge completely and then not have to disconnect it?
Completely discharging a battery reduces its lifespan. It's completely unnecessary.
Because no lipo battery is ever completely discharged -- you would not be able to recharge it if it was. There will always be enough power left in it to cause damage if shorted even if it isn't charged enough to power up the device it's connected to.
I would personally not recommend pulling the tab. It doesn’t apply force at the correct angle. You should revise these instructions to advise using a combination of pulling on the tab, and careful pressure on the connector towards the right of the mainboard to carefully work it out.
Using the pull tab alone could cause problems if not done extremely carefully.
This part was wayyyyy easier than I anticipated and I worried for nothing because I used the ifixit spudger to push it out a bit and then I literally used my finger nail and was able to slide it right off. Dont be afraid, its not that difficult and its not that delicate to break if you do it patiently
I inserted the cable very firmly with a spunger, being careful not to press down too hard on the cables, and even tried redoing it, but I don't see any LED illumination. I am now unable to boot the deck into the boot manager. Any additional tips?
What is the risk of not unplugging the battery? Just curious!
Nick Hight - 返信
Once I was changing termal paste on my Windows based expensive tablet PC... And I was so scared to disconnect any cables (there was many of them), so I did it all with battery connected (I didn't even knew where is battery cable). When I tried to put board shield back... it didn't go right into needed place... and short circuit some small component. It flashed. That was the end of my repair. Dudies from repair service later told me that multiple components fried including CPU, so repairing is too hard. That's what can happen if you don't disconnect battery.
To pull the battery out I used my spunger, but the batter had actually not space to be pulled out completely. I needed to lift the cable up with the spunger to get the cable fully out. When plugging it in again I had to press the battery down kinda hard so it would fit again. This was really scary and I recommand using two spunger as someone said above.
Does it have to be a clean fingernail?
I disagree with the order here: I think the battery should be disconnected right after step 4. You can do that before touching anything else by gently pulling the pull tab to the right.
If all you want to do is to disconnect and reconnect your battery (because your Steam Deck is not booting up... again...) then with a bit of finesse, luck and a flat plastic tool you can even push it back in without removing the shield. Make sure it went all the way back in.
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トリガーの左クリップの内側の端に、スパッジャーの平らな先端を当てます。
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トリガークリップをペグから離し、上に回して、ラッチを解除します。
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左側トリガーを外します。
In case the spring gets lost, it's 19 mm long with about 14 coils.
Omg thank you
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左側のトリガーブラケットを外します。
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トリガーを交換したら、正常どおり動かせるためにキャリブレーションが必要です。 このキャリブレーションガイドを参照してください。
If I only need to get to this part to check if I have to change the button or the daughterboard, do I HAVE to disconnect the battery ? The less I fiddle with things the more likely it is that I won’t break anything else…
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、ボタン用ボードの相互接続ケーブルのZIFコネクタ上にある小さなロッキングフラップを跳ね上げます。
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ピンセットの片側をつかって、コネクタからケーブルをスライドして外します。
Interconnect cable is along bottom of left board (on your right hand side). Ought to put a picture of where it is for easier reference.
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どのコネクタでもテープで覆われている場合は、ピンセットでテープを剥がしてください。
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、ボタンボードのZIFコネクタ上の小さなロッキングフラップを持ちあげます。
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Dパッドケーブルをの接続を外します。
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タッチパッドボードケーブルの接続を外します。
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スパッジャーの尖っている方の先端でハプティックケーブルを持ちあげて、接続を外します。
Any advice on resoldering a disconnected haptics connector housing?
If you dont accidently launch the housing some where you cant find it
Jimbo -
Der Stecker steckte fester im Gehäuse als das Gehäuse auf der Platine... Eine Idee, wie das in Ordnung gebracht werden kann?
Broke the housing in half, still usable though. This was while only prying the connector, which stretched the housing too much. I highly recommend the flipping over the edge alternative :)
Radu Bonea - 返信
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プラスドライバーを使って、左側ボタンボードを固定している4本のネジを外します。
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5.2 mmネジー3本
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3.9 mm ネジー1本
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左側ボタンボードを外します。
This is useful, but how do I get a Left Button Board? Mine is damaged in the left bumper button micro switch and I need a replacement.
i thought i needed to replace L1 but i need to replace daughter board too. Valve has said they will supply left daughter boards they are just sold out rn
B P -
Same, i replaced the assembly for nothing, its the board that needs to be replaced, since i cant solder at all and its the blue button that is faulty
Where can I purchase a board
I need this board to fix my deck
que precio tiene esta pieza, se daño la de mi steam deck
when will the button board be for sale?
L4 button not worked. When will the button board be for sale?
Will a button board be available for purchase soon?
Please provide daughter board, l1 button stopped working. Pads lifted off the board.
Will a button board be available for purchase soon?
Also need a button board....
Guys, I have the same problem as everyone else. The STEAM button stopped working almost immediately after purchase, Steam actually refused the warranty - they offered me to bring the console myself to the other side of the world, although they could have simply sent a replacement part or a new one. You can’t buy spare parts anywhere - they simply weren’t made “in reserve.” As a result, I have a dead, useless console for a lot of money. No trust in Valve now. I'm thinking of filing a class action lawsuit against the company. Maybe we can get together? I'm @paaladin on social networks and Steam.Where can I buy this board? If this board isn't available, what else could I do to fix the L1 button switch?
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Steam Deckの正面から、左のタッチパッドを指で押して、フロントシェルから外し ます。
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タッチパッドをミッドフレームのはみ出している部分下から持ち上げます。
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タッチパッドを取り出します。
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トリガーの右クリップの内側の端に、スパッジャーの平らな先端を当てます。
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トリガークリップをペグから離し、上に回して、ラッチを解除します。
This is unnecessary on the revised Model 1030 if you only need to access the Quick Access button. Jump to Step 13.
Model 1030 is the OLED version, which we have separate guides for! See here: Steam Deck OLED
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右側のトリガーを外します。
In case the spring gets lost, it's 19 mm long with about 14 coils.
Thank you this is helpful
reconbot -
When putting this back on be sure to note the instructions for reassembly above. Catch the outer peg, align the inner one, and push. Having a flashlight on the inner peg helped me get it lined up.
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右側のトリガーブラケットを外します。
The right bumper button on my switch deck stopped working after the deck was accidentally dropped from 5ft. When I got to this step of the instructions, I was able to see that the momentary switch that the button triggers had been bent backwards from the impact, making it difficult for the button to trigger the switch. I bent the switch back to its original position, which fixed the mechanical problem. Unfortunately the solder joints for the switch cracked when I pressed the switch forward. I re-flowed the solder joints with a tiny Weber iron that I filed down to a narrow point. The button works properly now.
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この手順で使用する道具：Tweezers$4.99
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プラスドライバーを使って、サムスティックを固定している5.2mmネジを3本外します。
This is unnecessary if you only need to access the Quick Access button on the revised Model 1030. Jump to step 16.
Model 1030 is the OLED version, which we have separate guides for! See here: Steam Deck OLED
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、ボタンボードケーブルのZIFコネクタ上の小さなロッキングフラップを跳ね上げます。
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ピンセットを使って、コネクタからケーブルをスライドして外します。
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スパッジャーの片側先端を使って、ボタンボードの相互接続ケーブルのZIFコネクタ上にある、小さなロッキングフラップを跳ね上げます。
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ピンセットを使って、コネクタからケーブルをスライドして外します。
Be very mindful of this cable during re-assembly, if this cable isn't fully seated properly the deck will turn on slowly and not be able to recognize any inputs besides the touch screen.
Hmm, I wonder if this is my problem. I replaced my case with the Clear JSAUX one. Everything went fairly well, until I closed it up and noticed none of my buttons worked anymore. By "seated properly", how do you tell? When I look at it, it looks the same as the picture, with the white line showing
Eric, flip up the white locking flap and remove the cable. Then reinsert the cable — it should go in smoothly with no resistance, hence its name (ZIF = "Zero Insertion Force") — if you feel resistance, there might be something blocking the cable or its connection. If it slides in smoothly, make sure it bottoms out evenly and isn't at an odd angle. If everything looks good, your problem is probably elsewhere.
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いずれかのコネクタがテープで覆われている場合は、ピンセットで剥がしてください。
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スパッジャーの先端部分を使い、残りのボタンボードのZIFコネクタにある小さなロッキングフラップを持ち上げてください。ピンセットを使って、ケーブルをコネクタから滑り出させます。
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アクションボタンケーブルの接続を外します。
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タッチパッドボードケーブルの接続を外します。
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タッチパッドケーブルの接続を外します。
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、ハプティックケーブルを持ち上げて接続を外します。
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コネクタを外す代わりに、ハプティックをボタンボードに接続したままボタンボードを筐体の外側にひっくり返すことで作業の邪魔にならないようにすることもできます。
Personally, i think this should just be a suggested step, since the connector is different and requires more force to disconnect than the ribbon cable connectors and you can leave this connected and lay the board over to the side without disconnecting this and still access the buttons.
I agree with Peter on this. I tried fixing my right bumper before ordering a replacement and during disassembly I followed these instructions exactly and still broke the bracket that holds the haptics connector. Luckily my haptics seem to still be working after putting it back together but I have a feeling it will disconnect on its own after some time and I will be needing a whole new button board.
I did this very carefully and the bracket still broke
I broke the down part of the bracket as well. Glued it back on with some crazy glue applied with a wooden toothpick (to make sure to not touch anything else). Haptics still working. Next time I don't think I'll remove that connector.
I agree with everyone above. Attempting to disconnect the haptics is not worth it as it breaks extremely easily
Please remove this step. It is virtually impossible to remove this without breaking the housing and it's ultimately not necessary.
Wish I had seen this beforehand. My right connector just broke off. Ughhh.
Can this just be soldered back on or do I need a new button board? Because I have looked online and they seem impossible to find.
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プラスドライバーを使って、右側ボタンボードを固定している4本のネジを外します。
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5.2mmネジー3本
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3.9 mmネジー1本
Once again, for the revised Model 1030, all of these screws are T6 of varying sizes, nothing like the original. Use your favourite way of keeping track of where to return the screws in their correct holes.
Model 1030 is the OLED version, which we have separate guides for! See here: Steam Deck OLED
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Steam Deckの前面から、右側のタッチパッドを指で押して、フロントシェルの一部を外し、脱着します。
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タッチパッドをミッドフレームのはみ出し部分の下から持ち上げます。
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タッチパッドを外します。
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ピンセットを使って、ファンの上部端からステッカーを外します。
If you feel comfortable completing step 51 (disconnecting the fan) with the heat sink in place, this step can be skipped. You can then remove the heat sink and the fan as a unit, leaving the sticker intact.
Ean Manley - 返信
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スパッジャーの先端を使って、ディスプレイケーブルのZIFコネクタ上の小さなロッキングフラップを跳ねあげます。
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ピンセットを使って、コネクタからケーブルをスライドして外します。
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スパッジャーの平面側先端を使って、右側スピーカーとフレームの間に差し込みます。
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スパッジャーを回転させて、フロントシェル側に軽く接着剤で固定されたスピーカーを剥がします。
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左側スピーカーとフレームの間にスパッジャーの先端を差し込みます。
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スパッジャーを上に回して、スピーカーをフロントシェルに固定されているライト接着剤から切り離します。
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ディスプレイケーブルのZIFコネクタにある小さなロックフラップを、スパジャーの先の尖った部分で持ち上げます。
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ピンセットを使って、コネクタからケーブルをスライドして外します。
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ディスプレイ左上のできるだけ端に近いところに吸盤を押し当てて装着させます。
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吸盤を安定した強い力で引き上げ、ディスプレイとフレームの間に隙間を作ります。
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オープニングピックを隙間に差し込みます。
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プラスドライバーを使って、フロント側のフロントシェルをミッドフレームに固定している、2.3mmネジを6本外します。
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フロントシェルからマイクケーブルを取り出します。
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フロントシェルだけが残ります。
cry
Does the front shell come with adhesive for the screen? If not, where do I get adhesive to reattach the screen to the new front shell?
The front shell doesn't come with adhesive — screen adhesive can be found here. Happy fixing!
Can I know where to buy the mic cable?
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このデバイスを再組み立てするには、インストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
電子廃棄物(e-waste)は 適切な方法で処分してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？ベーシックなトラブルシューティングを行うか、 Steam Deckのアンサーコミュニティに尋ねてみましょう。
このデバイスを再組み立てするには、インストラクションを逆の順番に従って作業を進めてください。
電子廃棄物(e-waste)は 適切な方法で処分してください。
修理が上手く進みませんか？ベーシックなトラブルシューティングを行うか、 Steam Deckのアンサーコミュニティに尋ねてみましょう。
18 の人々がこのガイドを完成させました。
以下の翻訳者の皆さんにお礼を申し上げます:
100%
Midori Doiさんは世界中で修理する私たちを助けてくれています！ あなたも貢献してみませんか？
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20件のガイドコメント
Hahaha. Same
Rob -
Same, wouldn't have minded a sweet water dipped or translucent outer shell. Bring back that mad catz/third party aesthetic.
I wanted to replace my old shell with a new one cause it got scratches... well, now I feel the scratches ain't that ugly.
Seems to me like a "Welp...I guess if I ever break the screen and have to replace it, that's when I'll get an atomic purple shell...
I dropped mine and scratched it.... This seems to involve more than a simple screen replacement on my phones. I'll likely still order some spare parts just in case. With a baby on the way, they will likely break it and I want to be able to fix it quickly.
Fortunately, mine at the moment works. I should always close the hard case. Took it out of the car and didn't zip it up. Fell right out.
Just fell down the stairs and the joysticks damaged the top shell, but everything still works. After reading this, I think I'm going to live with it. Sheesh.
Great instructions, very easy to follow and precise. I followed it for the front face replacement but if you go all the way to remove the LCD it’s probably a good idea to purchase a new LCD and replace it as well. Removal of the LCD was the most troublesome and it’s possible to cause small separations of front glass from LCD, the LCD will probably work but the separation spots might be visible once same LCD is reused. Patience and following the instructions is the key here. Thank you for excellent instructions! 10/10 !
Greg Skuza - 返信
If you choose to replace/upgrade the screen as well, are you able to skip the step of taking the old screen off the front shell?
No, there are screws for the mid-plate behind the screen, see step 94
Will replacement speaker adhesive ever be available for purchase?
Shell swap would be cool for that Game Boy Color vibe...
Shell swap would mean broken Deck....
%#*@.
I was done at Step 18...instead of pushing that little guy up, I yanked on those cables like a moron...somehow I got that connector together again, thankfully.
Was trying to do a case swap...you know what, the old case is good enough for me :-)
I just realized I have a crack in the top bezel that extends into the fan exhaust area. Now I'm not nearly as bothered by it lol. If it craps out or truly breaks, I'll just get an OLED.
Given that I have exactly that flaw on a secondhand one... I wonder if it's structural. Maybe send a message to steam support to see if they'll handle it?
Very good guide. The instructions were clear and it made the process so easy. I really enjoyed following it and had lots of fun.
On a side note: Something worth adding to the part where you take off the screen display is that be careful running your pry pic along the top side because there is the mic cable there. I accidentally tore mine. Its a hard part to find a replacement for. I taped mine back together, and I don't use the mic, so I got away with it. But when they say don't insert the pic too far in, THEY MEAN IT.
For an unknown reason the atomic purple shell was sent back for a refund and the swap was never attempted. So weird. (I know my skill level 😅)
Guys, if you are going to attempt this - I recommend ordering left/right bumper button replacement too. Mine where broken (dunno in the process of disassembly or before). You won't want to wait for another delivery with half-assembled deck, trust me.
Rudokhvist - 返信
